I absolutely hate my eyebrows. They are the WEIRDEST color, they have 0 shape, and they look absolutely nothing alike. I am forever jealous of people with naturally beautiful brows- mine have the most annoying growth pattern, they don’t even extend to the ends of my eye. The tail of my brows is usually completely drawn on and is such a pain in the ass to make look natural. While they grow in a square-like shape, they aren’t at all thick. In fact, they’re actually very sparse- so how the actual hell am I suppose to work with a thick shape but thinning hairs?
After literally years and years of experimenting, I think I’ve finally mastered the technique of whipping these dumb bitches into shape. Some common problems I’ve dealt with regarding my brows have included:
- not being able to get the right color
- not being able to get them to look even remotely similar
- not being able to locate where the arch is suppose to go
- not knowing what to do with the front hairs that stick upward (you know the hairs I’m talking about)
- wanting to pull a Jeffree Star and just shave them right the fuck off my face because I’m so tired
I have found solutions to all of these problems (at last) so here I am today to share these 5 tips with you on how to get your eyebrows on fleeeeek every time.
1) Always Use Upward Motions
Never never never use downward motions when filling in your brows. It’s all about mimicking the way your hair grows naturally to the best of your ability. Since most eyebrow shapes go upward into an arch and the tail points down, sometimes people think that once they get to the tail they should start doing downward strokes (that is exactly what I did when I first started doing my brows- up up, down down, brush in some brow wax and done). However if you look closely, the hairs naturally grow up and outward. Its just the pattern that they grow in to create that downward tail descending from the arch. Start by combing a spoolie brush upwards through the hairs before you begin filling them in. Even when filling in the tail, using tiny upward diagonal strokes will achieve the best results.
Another mistake I made was using horizontal strokes. This could also make the brows look choppy and unnatural. When filling in the brows the goal (for most) is to add lift to the eyes whilst anchoring the face. I know a lot of funky eyebrow trends tend to circulate every now and then, and if you are into that sort of thing then by all means you do you boo. But I like to think of eyebrows as part of the foundation work when applying makeup- they need to be consistent and quiet in order to keep the whole look coherent and pulled together. The best way to achieve non distracting yet beautifully crafted eyebrows is to complete every pen or brush stroke in a slight upward motion.
2) Go A Shade Lighter Than Your Hair Color
If we’re still following my consistent and quiet aesthetic, we don’t want our eyebrows to be too dark. Therefore, our best bet is to do a shade lighter than our natural hair color. This tip may be a little bit harder for our ivory blonde friends to follow but tip #3 will hopefully clarify this a little more. Some people may try to match their eyebrows exactly to their hair, but if you look in the mirror you will most likely notice your natural brows aren’t quite the same as your hair. So when it becomes hard to find your exact eyebrow color in a product, a shade lighter than your natural hair color is a safe way to go. Think of it like when you are putting together an outfit and you want to use one color but different shades of said color. I could pair these high waisted bright orange pants with a muted, blushy coral top and have a nice summery look but if I chose to wore a top that was just as bright and orange as those pants, I’d look like an overwhelmingly loud traffic cone. Same goes with hair and eyebrows- let your brow color gently compliment your hair.
3) Assess the Undertones of Your Natural Hair & Skin Color
This is where I think I could be more helpful for those with naturally light blond hair who don’t really feel like having pure white eyebrows. Sometimes you can create a good color match by using undertones. For example, I used to think I was very warm toned. I considered my hair to be a chocolate brown and since I’m quite tan I assumed my skin tone was also warm. This resulted in my eyebrows appearing red against my hair and skin. I’ve since figured out that I actually have a quite neutral skin tone and that my natural hair has cool undertones- my roots are nearly black. Now I know to use grayish colors in my brow products rather than deep browns. This could be applied to absolutely any hair and skin combo to find the perfect color match.
4) Use The “Three Points”
The Three Points are as follows: the beginning of your brow, the arch, and the end of the brow tail. Here is how to locate the Three Points: Hold your brow pencil or eye brush vertical and parallel to the bridge of your nose. Place it over the inner corner of your eye and follow it upward until you reach your brow area. The brush or pencil should rest where your eyebrow will start (the little vertical hairs I talked about earlier). This is point one.
If you look straight forward at the mirror and move your brush to the center of your eye so that it appears to be intersecting right up the middle of your pupil, you should be able to follow the brush up to where the highest point of your brow will be- the arch. Important Note: The point lies to the side of your pen/brush, not directly under it. If you are measuring your right eye, the point will lie just to the right of the pen/brush. If you are measuring your left eye, the point will lie just to the left.
Finally, if you move your pen/brush and rest it over the very outer corner of your eye and follow the pen up to your brow, you will find point 3, which is the end of the brow. This technique will help you create a naturally sized brow and keep you from accidentally making one eyebrow larger than the other.
5) Learn What Feathering Is And Do It
If you ever watch beauty Youtube videos they will often throw the word “feathering” around a lot. Feathering is the act of using using short, concise strokes to draw on tiny hairs rather than longer strokes that just add on color. Some people like to use one long stroke along the bottom of the brow to define the initial shape before filling it in. Instead of doing this, try a series of small strokes in an upward motion across the bottom of the brow. This will still add a pigmented defined line, but it will appear to be one with the brow and not as harsh as a straight line. Feathering a product into your brows is just like adding fake little hairs to your brows. It is a much more pleasing way to fill in sparse areas of the brow rather than depositing color all at once over the top of your natural brow hairs.
I really hope I could help other people out there who are like me and have the most difficult time doing their eyebrows. Some of these tips may be no brainers, some of them may be hidden gems and some of them may make you say “what the hell does she think she is talking about”. These tips were not only collected from personal experience but also what I’ve learned watching other people of all different hair colors and brow shapes. In the end what matters most is developing a method that best suits you and the look you want to achieve, because ultimately there are no rules in makeup but one can never stop improving their skills and technique ❤